Originally written for Liberty Belle (March 2015), read it here.
Designer profiles are a staple of many fashion magazines, either to introduce new faces or to gain a deeper understanding of already established brands. In a recent interview with an Italian magazine, the design duo behind their namesake label Dolce and Gabbana revealed some pretty offensive views.
When discussing the concept of family, Domenico Dolce revealed that the pair opposes gay adoption, saying that the only valid form of family is the “traditional” one. He also described children conceived through IVF as “synthetic”. This is an understandably offensive blow to the LGBT+ community as it seeks to invalidate the families many have created. With LGBT+ rights constantly under scrutiny and attack from right-wing conservatives these comments – which come from members of their own community, as both Dolce and Gabbana are gay – is a harsh setback in the fight for equality.
The backlash to this homophobia came from Elton John, who condemned the comments made by the designers and asked for their brand to be boycotted as a result and coining the hashtag #BoycottDolceGabbana. Though this initial action was limited to those who can already afford Dolce & Gabbana clothing, petitions immediately sprang up calling for Macys and Debenhams to remove the brand from their stores until the owners apologise for their comments. At present, the petition has just under 17,000 signatures. Protestors have also taken to the pavement outside the flagship Bond Street store to call for the designers to take back their words.
The boycott may be set to divide the fashion world. Although Victoria Beckham and other celebrities have spoken out in solidarity with the campaign, others such as Gwen Stefani have been seen wearing the brand since the comments were made. Many stylists are unsure how to proceed, with several choosing not to make a stand themselves but instead to leave it up to their celebrity clients who in turn are following the advice of their publicists. Significantly, fashion insiders and big name publishers have remained silent on the issue.
It is difficult to see why the designers have made these comments, given that they are both gay themselves. However looking into the political background of Italy may give some indication. Same-sex marriage is not legal in Italy and IVF is only available for married couples, therefore gay couples are unable to have children in this way. Gay couples cannot pursue fertility treatment in their own country and must become “fertility tourists” elsewhere. Italy is a deeply Catholic and conservative country and Dolce and Gabbana frequently reference this element of traditionalism in their designs. Their clothes reference traditional Italian style and themes constantly with their ad campaigns consistently using scenes of the “traditional” Italian family to market their designs. Alongside the celebration of “traditional” and biological motherhood in their latest collection, it is uncomfortably easy to see where these comments might have come from.
The fashion world has a large LGBT+ community. Many non-heterosexual men and women work in the industry and it has become one of the better workplaces for freedom of expression. This is why comments like Dolce’s are so disappointing. Fashion portrays itself as a welcoming and revolutionary industry, so how can beliefs like this be made by two of its most prominent and beloved figures? Large brands and well-known names that reach beyond the fashion world have a responsibility to stop prejudice like this – and call it out when it occurs. While strides are being made in LGBT+ representation, e.g. trans models such as Hari Nef becoming icons on and off the runway, comments like this set the fight for equality back several years.
Unfortunately, as few big names in the fashion industry itself have spoken out against these views, it appears there is a long way to go. Though the brand may have bad publicity for a few weeks, possibly months, the lack of industry insiders condemning their comments means that their revenue will ultimately be safe. Clients who are wealthy but protected by a lack of fame will probably feel no guilt in buying from the brand and as advertising deals are fixed months in advance their clothes are likely to be seen in the pages of many fashion magazines this season. Having already defended their comments, it will be interesting to see how the designers will recover from their public display of bigotry.
As we fight for a liberated, equal society, it is important to critique the damaging views held by public figures – and this includes the fashion industry.
