Breasts and Body Politics

Originally written for The Style Con (September 2014) and featured in the @FashionREDEF daily round up. 

Breasts and Body Politics on The Style Con website.

Breasts and Body Politics on the @FashionREDEF archive

I sometimes think of my body as something detached from who I am. I prefer to think of it as a thing that I wear or own, not something which I actually exist as. This detachment lets me pretend that the expectations women’s bodies are subjected to are further removed from me than they really are. Instead, I can imagine my body as something simply to be dressed up for the day – just an external shell for my inner being.

The body parts I most want to treat as separate from myself are my breasts.. The anxiety of having my body so examined has made me imagine a world where that gaze doesn’t exist. I’ve started to think of breasts as body parts to use as decoration – as accessories, even. This came after a conversation with a friend who said she wished she could just leave hers in drawer when she felt like it. I loved this concept, so I started to explore pop culture moments where breasts look like they’ve been taken out of the wardrobe, dusted off and returned to the body as carefully and as calculated as a necklace or a ring.

The most recent example of this has to be Rihanna at the CFDA Awards in that utterly see-through, utterly wonderful crystal-encrusted gown that was a beautiful cross between Josephine Baker and Rose McGowan at the 1998 VMAs. So much has been written about this now that it seems a bit redundant to bring it up again, but I can’t stop thinking about it even now. That dress made me think that maybe we can use our external body parts, our breasts, to actually poke fun at the patriarchal ridiculousness which sexualises them. When we see breasts uncovered as we might see an arm uncovered, the bizarreness of their status as supposedly sexual organs is drawn attention to and we are jolted into the realisation that they are just another neutral body part. Rihanna sums this up best herself, speaking to a reporter she asked “My tits bother you? They’re covered in Swarovski crystals, girl!” her casualness at her own nakedness showing us breasts are actually not that big a deal. In this way of thinking, to the owner (wearer?) breasts become just another part of the body to be adorned, or even treated as an accessory.

Siouxsie Sioux almost literalises this concept in my favourite picture of her, wearing a white t-shirt emblazoned with a grainy, anatomically correct picture of breasts as she yells on stage. The punk sub-culture she was part of involved women wearing fetish wear as every day clothing to upset and subvert male sexual desire, and this visibility of naked, “taboo” female-associated body parts does exactly that. The image on the t-shirt, so plain and unsexual, is clearly not intended for male pleasure, and seems to demand that we re-evaluate the way breasts are viewed. With the 1990s becoming an ever more popular reference point, The Spice Girls with their visible nipples in the Wannabe video and Lil Kim at the 1999 VMA awards in her one-sided cat suit and sequinned purple nipple pastie are aspirational because we are aching to be so at ease with our own bodies.

Recently, representations of breasts and/or nipples on clothing have been creeping into the mainstream, something which I’m pretty sure stems from Mean Girls (I mean, doesn’t everything?). The moment I am talking about is when Regina George looks down at her top to see two holes cut out over her nipples and, instead of screaming at this intended sabotage, simply shrugs and walks off to the awe of her fellow teens. Of course, every girl comes in the next day having done the same thing to their own clothes. Meadham Kirchhoff offered up a homage to this in their deeply loved Spring/Summer 2012 collection in the form of a sequinned cut out cardigan and now we are seeing clothes with hearts, stars, basically anything printed over the chest as smirking references to the real nipples that lie beneath the jersey. A clothes shop near me has some particularly bizarre ones including shirts printed with cats, alien faces and pineapples. These ersatz representations are not breasts of course but, as Susan Sontag would put it, “breasts”. These cutesy shapes highlight the body parts which are the most sexualised, the most shamed and most hidden, drawing attention to their presence while simultaneously keeping them covered at all times. You can laughingly reference the fact that you have breasts, but never actually reveal them. 

Breasts are unfortunately very political body parts. To those that own them, they often feel like they do not properly “belong” to us. But with this idea of detachment from the body there comes a possibility, a hope, that we can reclaim these bodies and body parts as our own, to enjoy and decorate them however we please outside of the dark cloud of patriarchy. In our bedrooms and our wardrobes, they can be ours and ours alone.

Why #BoycottDolceGabbana Won't Work

Originally written for Liberty Belle (March 2015), read it here.

Designer profiles are a staple of many fashion magazines, either to introduce new faces or to gain a deeper understanding of already established brands. In a recent interview with an Italian magazine, the design duo behind their namesake label Dolce and Gabbana revealed some pretty offensive views.

When discussing the concept of family, Domenico Dolce revealed that the pair opposes gay adoption, saying that the only valid form of family is the “traditional” one. He also described children conceived through IVF as “synthetic”. This is an understandably offensive blow to the LGBT+ community as it seeks to invalidate the families many have created. With LGBT+ rights constantly under scrutiny and attack from right-wing conservatives these comments – which come from members of their own community, as both Dolce and Gabbana are gay – is a harsh setback in the fight for equality.

The backlash to this homophobia came from Elton John, who condemned the comments made by the designers and asked for their brand to be boycotted as a result and coining the hashtag #BoycottDolceGabbana. Though this initial action was limited to those who can already afford Dolce & Gabbana clothing, petitions immediately sprang up calling for Macys and Debenhams to remove the brand from their stores until the owners apologise for their comments. At present, the petition has just under 17,000 signatures. Protestors have also taken to the pavement outside the flagship Bond Street store to call for the designers to take back their words.

The boycott may be set to divide the fashion world. Although Victoria Beckham and other celebrities have spoken out in solidarity with the campaign, others such as Gwen Stefani have been seen wearing the brand since the comments were made. Many stylists are unsure how to proceed, with several choosing not to make a stand themselves but instead to leave it up to their celebrity clients who in turn are following the advice of their publicists. Significantly, fashion insiders and big name publishers have remained silent on the issue.

It is difficult to see why the designers have made these comments, given that they are both gay themselves. However looking into the political background of Italy may give some indication. Same-sex marriage is not legal in Italy and IVF is only available for married couples, therefore gay couples are unable to have children in this way. Gay couples cannot pursue fertility treatment in their own country and must become “fertility tourists” elsewhere. Italy is a deeply Catholic and conservative country and Dolce and Gabbana frequently reference this element of traditionalism in their designs. Their clothes reference traditional Italian style and themes constantly with their ad campaigns consistently using scenes of the “traditional” Italian family to market their designs. Alongside the celebration of “traditional” and biological motherhood in their latest collection, it is uncomfortably easy to see where these comments might have come from.

The fashion world has a large LGBT+ community. Many non-heterosexual men and women work in the industry and it has become one of the better workplaces for freedom of expression. This is why comments like Dolce’s are so disappointing. Fashion portrays itself as a welcoming and revolutionary industry, so how can beliefs like this be made by two of its most prominent and beloved figures? Large brands and well-known names that reach beyond the fashion world have a responsibility to stop prejudice like this – and call it out when it occurs. While strides are being made in LGBT+ representation, e.g. trans models such as Hari Nef becoming icons on and off the runway, comments like this set the fight for equality back several years.

Unfortunately, as few big names in the fashion industry itself have spoken out against these views, it appears there is a long way to go. Though the brand may have bad publicity for a few weeks, possibly months, the lack of industry insiders condemning their comments means that their revenue will ultimately be safe. Clients who are wealthy but protected by a lack of fame will probably feel no guilt in buying from the brand and as advertising deals are fixed months in advance their clothes are likely to be seen in the pages of many fashion magazines this season. Having already defended their comments, it will be interesting to see how the designers will recover from their public display of bigotry.

As we fight for a liberated, equal society, it is important to critique the damaging views held by public figures – and this includes the fashion industry.

How To: Wear Latex

Originally written for Liberty Belle (March 2015), read it here.

Kim Kardashian and Rita Ora have both been out and about recently in pink latex dresses. And you can steal their style. (Yes, really!)

Last week, Kim Kardashian and Rita Ora were both spotted wearing latex dresses in a particular shade of dusky pink. Latex clothing has been around in fetish wear and subculture scenes for a long time, its precursor being the bondage leather looks of 1970s punks. These days, with the nod from bodycon queen Kim K, its set to become a lot more mainstream.

This is easier said than done though as the look is very high fashion and not necessarily something you can just slip on for nipping to the shops. Separates such as bralets, skirts or leggings are the answer here and are only a small sartorial step up from the wet look/PVC trend. Mixing up colours and textures is another way to make latex more day-friendly, dusky pink with black or grey separates would be an ideal pairing. The head to toe latex look is very difficult to pull off, even Kim K accessorising her midi dress with a beige fur coat to soften the effect. Basically, try to avoid looking as if you’ve come dressed as Catwoman.

Both Kim and Rita’s dresses were designed by Japanese designer Atsuko Kudo, who has been working with latex since 2001, and frequently designs for Lady Gaga. She says that latex “holds you in like a second skin. It's empowering. You become like Superwoman!” It is definitely a very overtly sexy fabric choice, which is not for the shy. Its stretchy quality meaning that it has to be incredibly tight to the skin – enemies of bodycon beware.”

Latex is a versatile, beautiful medium which Atsuko Kudo’s new lingerie collection for her brand reveals. Alongside jewellery and hosiery she premiered lace patterns, filigree, fringing and fish scale effects all constructed entirely from latex. Both celebrities’ dusky pink dresses are available on her website along with some much more avant garde pieces, although with the steep price tag if you fancy experimenting with the style you had best stick to the cheaper (and probably much more wearable) PVC copycat versions on the high street.

Chit Chat with model Brogan Loftus

Originally written for Liberty Belle (May 2014), read it here.

The life of a high fashion model is enviable. Getting to wear expensive clothes, travelling to new cities and working with amazing people within the fashion industry is basically living the dream of most fashion-obsessed girls. 

And one such girl experiencing this life is Brogan Loftus, a new name and face in the modelling industry whose profile is just about to go stratospheric. With her mid length brown hair and fierce brows, Brogan is a striking cross between Cara Delevingne and Freja Beha, and has an incredible presence on the runway. 

Brogan has only been modelling full time since September, but her unique look has already secured her work with some pretty big names – she stars in the new McQ by Alexander McQueen advertising campaign and has walked for the likes of Fendi, Chanel and Céline.

In between modelling blazers at Vogue Festival and flying to Venice for the Diesel show, she took some time out to chat with Liberty Belle:

Hi Brogan! Firstly, how did you get into modelling?

I was scouted at 14, while out shopping. My jumper was actually covered in hot chocolate!

What are the pros/cons of modelling?

Travelling is kind of both, because I hate flying but I do get to go to so many places I haven't been to before.

Which has been your favourite part/catwalk show so far?

Opening Céline [SS14] was crazy, and I didn't really understand what it meant until afterwards! The Chanel supermarket was amazing too.

Do you have any goals in modelling?

I'd love to do more for British brands like Burberry, Vivienne Westwood or Topshop.

How has your experience with your modelling agency been?

Great! I get to go home quite a bit and they’ve come to visit me and look around York.

Have you had any star stuck moments, with other models or designers?

Meeting Jourdan Dunn at NYFW was definitely one, and obviously talking to Cara [Delevingne] at Fendi and managing to get a picture with a smiling Kanye West!

Despite working with some of the biggest designers in fashion, Brogan is amazingly down to earth. She has such a stunning, unique look and we at Liberty Belle are excited to see more of her.

Follow her on Instagram (@brogzzz) or Twitter (@BroggssCB) to keep up with her work.